Women make up 75% of fashion graduates, yet power at the top of the industry tells a different story. Only a small fraction of the industry’s top roles are held by women. Meet the women changing that picture and moving the industry forward.
Join the Gromek Institute for Fashion Business and Julie Gilhart, fashion strategist, advisor to the LVMH Prize for Emerging Talent, and member of the Board of Governors of Parsons School of Design, for a conversation bringing together Gabriela Hearst, founder of her namesake label and former Creative Director of Chloé, whose concept of “honest luxury” has made her one of the most important voices in fashion’s movement toward sustainability, craftsmanship, and enduring design; Veronica Leoni, the first woman in the history of Calvin Klein Collection to serve as creative director; and Rachel Scott of Diotima and Proenza Schouler, the first Black woman to lead a major fashion house in the U.S. and one of the most influential new voices in American fashion.
The conversation will explore not only how Gabriela, Veronica, Rachel, and Julie built authority in an industry still shaped by unequal power, but how their paths have differed, where they have found common ground, where they have not, what hurdles remain even at the top, and what they hope to see change in fashion going forward. Moving between personal backstory and larger industry change, it will consider what it takes to lead creatively and strategically at the highest level, and how vision, business fluency, and values can come together to shape the future of fashion.
For students and emerging professionals, it is a chance to hear directly from women at the top about the skills, perspective, and resilience needed to build a lasting career in fashion today.
Hearst grew up on her family’s ranch in Uruguay, where the idea of luxury meant things were beautifully crafted and made to last. That philosophy informed the launch of her eponymous label in 2015 and continues to define her work today. Her runway shows have been a pioneering example of sustainability, from the use of deadstock fabrics and the elimination of plastic to the first carbon-neutral runway show with her Spring Summer 2020 collection. A widely recognized leader in fashion and climate consciousness, Hearst has received numerous honors for her work and was named Creative Director of Chloé in 2020, further extending her influence on the global fashion landscape.
Leoni brings a rare depth of experience across some of fashion’s most respected houses, having worked at Jil Sander, Céline, Moncler Genius, and The Row before founding her own label, Quira. A 2023 LVMH Prize finalist, she is recognized for balancing precision, restraint, and expressiveness in a design language rooted in the idea of clothes for life. Her much-anticipated Calvin Klein Collection debut at New York Fashion Week in February 2025 marked a significant new chapter for one of America’s most iconic fashion brands, and in Fall 2025 she was inducted into the BoF 500.
Scott, born in Jamaica, came to fashion through language, drawing on a background in French existentialism and post-structuralism that continues to shape her approach to design. Having founded Diotima and now serving as Creative Director of Proenza Schouler, she has emerged as one of the most influential new voices in American fashion, bringing a more expansive vision to the conversation around design, craft, and authorship. Her perspective is grounded in a distinct understanding of the intersection between the historical, political, and aesthetic.
Julie Gilhart has built a highly respected consultancy, advising clients including LVMH, Kering, Amazon Fashion, The RealReal, H&M, Hourglass Cosmetics, and more. She is known for her instinct for emerging talent, brand development, innovation, and for championing a legacy of creativity and craftsmanship through connections that forge profitable and responsible businesses in an ever-changing fashion landscape. For 18 years, Gilhart served as SVP and Fashion Director at Barneys New York, where she oversaw creative and business direction and played a significant role in introducing and building American businesses for a new generation of designers. Her impact as a creative strategist can be seen in the iconic brands she helped elevate during her tenure at Barneys, including Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Givenchy under Riccardo Tisci, Goyard, Jil Sander, Lanvin with Alber Elbaz, The Row, Prada, Proenza Schouler, and Rick Owens. She serves on the board of Closely Crafted and is the co-founder of the non-profit Fashion Girls for Humanity.
First come first serve. Registration does not guarantee entry.
With decades of experience shaping fashion businesses, Gilhart is known for her instinct for emerging talent, brand development, and a longstanding commitment to responsibility and innovation. For 18 years, she served as Senior Vice President and Fashion Director at Barneys New York, where she oversaw creative and business direction and played a significant role in introducing and building American businesses for a new generation of designers.
Gabriela Hearst grew up on her family’s ranch in Uruguay, where the notion of luxury meant things were beautifully crafted and made to last which inspired the launch of her eponymous label in Fall 2015. She wanted a brand that reflected purpose in every piece - luxury collections with a conscience, or “honest luxury”. Gabriela Hearst’s runway shows have been a pioneering example of sustainability, using deadstock fabrics, and eliminating plastic use. Her Spring Summer 2020 collection marked the first ever carbon neutral runway show.
Designer Rachel Scott (b. 1984, Jamaica) comes to fashion through language. Drawing on her background in French existentialism and post-structuralism, Scott’s interest in fashion began with an awareness of language’s connection to culture and creativity. In an effort to stay close to ‘the things themselves,’ Scott looked to fashion design as a moment of intellectual, aesthetic, and corporeal unity to be explored.
Veronica Leoni was appointed Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection in May 2024.
A 2023 LVMH Prize finalist and founder of the acclaimed label QUIRA, Leoni’s distinctive vision is shaped by years working at some of the world’s most celebrated fashion brands, including Jil Sander, Céline, Moncler Genius and The Row. Leoni is recognized for her ability to balance precision, restraint and expressiveness and a design ethos rooted in the idea of clothes for life.
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Fashion industry veteran, Julie Gilhart, is a creative business consultant for a concentrated, influential set of clients, from the leading online e-commerce platform, Amazon, to the luxury goods group, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. She has also worked extensively with labels such as Goyard, Jil Sander and Prada, and today is a pioneer of sustainability and the circular economy.
She helped launch the inaugural LVMH Prize for Emerging Talent, engaging young, promising talent from all over the world. Previously, she was senior vice president, fashion director at Barneys New York for 18 years, where she oversaw creative, design and business direction. She was also responsible for bringing in new designers to the store, playing a significant role in building their American businesses. These included Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, Alexander Wang, Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, Proenza Schouler, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, Rick Owens, The Row and many more.
Gilhart sits on the boards of Mulberry, Kelly Slater’s Kering-backed label Outerknown, Parsons The New School for Design and Tomorrow Ltd. She is also an advisor to the CFDA, most recently working with them to establish the CFDA + Lexus Fashion Initiative for Sustainabilty. In addition, she is an ambassador for 1 Percent For The Planet and helped develop and launch Christie’s The Bid to Save the Earth auction raising over $3 million for the environment. She is a founder of Fashion Girls for Humanity, a non-profit focused on raising funds for immediate disaster relief. Julie currently supports several philanthropic efforts which include Alice Water’s Edible Schoolyard NYC, A Walk on Water, Waves4Water and serves on the board of The Montauk Oceans Institute. Gilhart is a keen surfer.
In March 2019, Gilhart sat on the 12-person jury for The Business of Fashion 's China Prize, which was won by Caroline Hu.
In 2024, she launched her own consulting firm, GILHART & Co., dedicated to discovering and nurturing emerging talent and championing responsibility through innovative partnerships that push beyond traditional boundaries. As an advisor to various organisations and a board member of Parsons The New School, Closely Crafted, and her own initiative, Fashion Girls for Humanity, Gilhart continues to help shape the industry’s evolution.
Gilhart’s extensive expertise encompasses both global powerhouses and independent brands, including Amazon Fashion, Hourglass Cosmetics, Kering, LVMH, and The RealReal. Her impact as a creative strategist is evident in her pivotal role in elevating now-iconic brands like Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Frederic Malle, and Givenchy under Riccardo Tisci, alongside Goyard, Jil Sander, and Lanvin with Alber Elbaz, as well as Prada, Proenza Schouler, Rick Owens, and many others during her transformative tenure at Barneys New York.
Previously, she served as President of Tomorrow Projects and Chief Development Officer of Tomorrow Ltd. Today, she is focused on ensuring a legacy of creativity and craftsmanship through connections that forge profitable and responsible businesses in the ever-changing fashion landscape. Her pragmatic approach to innovation is matched only by her deep commitment to environmental impact, positioning her as a vital voice in the future of fashion.
Gabriela Hearst grew up on her family’s ranch in Uruguay, where the notion of luxury meant things were beautifully crafted and made to last which inspired the launch of her eponymous label in Fall 2015. She wanted a brand that reflected purpose in every piece - luxury collections with a conscience, or “honest luxury”. Gabriela Hearst’s runway shows have been a pioneering example of sustainability, using deadstock fabrics, and eliminating plastic use. Her Spring Summer 2020 collection marked the first ever carbon neutral runway show.
She was the winner of the 2016/17 International Woolmark Prize for Womenswear, 2018 recipient of the Pratt Institute Fashion Visionary Award, the 2020 CFDA American Womenswear Designer of the Year, 2021 recipient of the Frank Alvah Parsons Award , 2022 recipient of the Infinity Trustees Award by the International Center of Photography, and was selected as one of the five Honorees in the Environment category among the fifteen Leaders of Change at the British Fashion Council’s 2020, 2021 and 2022 Fashion Awards. In December 2020, she was named Creative Director at Chloé. In 2021, she was named one of the 25 most Influential Women of 2021 by the Financial Times. In 2023, she was honored with the 2023 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion by The Couture Council of The Museum at FIT (MFIT). In March 2024, TIME announced Gabriela Hearst as one of the honorees of the 2024 TIME Earth Awards, which recognizes individuals influencing the future of the planet through their work on climate justice, awareness, and activism. Most recently, she was included in the inaugural list of National Geographic 33 which honors 33 changemakers whose ideas, influence and drive are shaping a better future for our planet.
Designer Rachel Scott (b. 1984, Jamaica) comes to fashion through language. Drawing on her background in French existentialism and post-structuralism, Scott’s interest in fashion began with an awareness of language’s connection to culture and creativity. In an effort to stay close to ‘the things themselves,’ Scott looked to fashion design as a moment of intellectual, aesthetic, and corporeal unity to be explored.
Having worked at all levels of the design process– from designer to executive to consultantthroughout her 17-year career in Milan and NYC, Scott brings vast technical and creative knowledge to Diotima. Foundational experiences at Costume National in Italy laid the groundwork for an approach to fashion rooted in a reverence for craft, construction, and fine materials– and her design sensibility as a Jamaican grounds her work in the concrete intersection of the historical, political, and the aesthetic.
Veronica Leoni was appointed Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection in May 2024.
A 2023 LVMH Prize finalist and founder of the acclaimed label QUIRA, Leoni’s distinctive vision is shaped by years working at some of the world’s most celebrated fashion brands, including Jil Sander, Céline, Moncler Genius and The Row. Leoni is recognized for her ability to balance precision, restraint and expressiveness and a design ethos rooted in the idea of clothes for life. At Calvin Klein, her goal is to define an ultimate and definitive expression of monumental minimalism and pureness through shape and craft that feels current for today.
Leoni made her much-anticipated Calvin Klein Collection debut at New York Fashion Week in February 2025, unveiling a transatlantic vision that blended the brand’s rich legacy and forward-thinking vision with a New York City attitude. Her creative direction signals a renewed focus on heightened simplicity and impeccable tailoring, creating systems of dressing that resonate with a global audience. In Fall 2025, Veronica was inducted into the BoF 500, the definitive index of the people shaping global fashion.
